The Funniest Thing...

21 June 2007
Phnom Penh
Sisowath Quay / FCC

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An interesting thing happened yesterday which underscored the lack of rule of law... . Kind of funny, kind of not...

Background: One of the places where regular Khmer and non-Khmer folk mingle is the Riverfront or Sisowath Quay. A diverse array of restaurants line the busy street - Khmer food, Italian food, Thai food, western steak houses, Chinese, et cetera are all available on the Riverfront. One of the most famous places, and certainly popular with Westerners, is a place called the FCC (http://www.fcccambodia.com/).

As you may recall, I’m an intern as a participant in the One World Foundation’s Young Leaders delegation. My internship is with the Cambodian Center for Human Rights. My boss Virak is a good guy to just sit and listen to, and Vidal and I were invited to the FCC after work for cocktails and conversation. He requested that we go to network with two NGO workers he has been friendly with in the past few weeks.

Soon after we arrived, Lazar and Raj joined us for drinks and conversation. Both are very interesting NGO workers from outside of Cambodia. Lazar, who is from Belgrade, was very somber guy with a dry wit, and a very friendly, understated style. He politely expressed curiosity about our background. A few minutes later, Raj arrived. Raj’s manner was an interesting contrast to Lazar’s calm and soft-spoken style of conversation. Raj is a humorous, gregarious fellow – his statements were punctuated by eyebrow raises, hand gestures and the occasional chortle. Both gentlemen were quite engaging, with superb conversational skills and very interesting insights into Cambodian life as a foreigner.

The gentlemen were so engrossing, in fact, that we didn't quite notice when Virak's car got apprehended by the police and towed away - with his driver still minding the car. In fairness, the car was parked facing the wrong way. But I get the sense that this was largely a pretext for impounding the car. The area, with plenty of Khmer families out and about, affluent Western and Khmer NGO workers and journalists, is a target for such events I guess ...

We had a few moments of anxiety after we learned the car was gone... The car contained my laptop, iPod, Vidal's laptop and papers, Virak's laptop, cell phone, keys, et cetera. In Cambodia, its not a given that if and when the police impound your car, you will get anything back at all - that is, unless you are willing to negotiate. Virak went by himself - as a Cambodian, he was least likely to get extorted. Lazar's car was also apprehended and towed, so Virak went to negotiate on his behalf as well.

About 1/2 hour after we got word of the car tow, Virak's driver came to see us in the FCC. He came bearing good tidings – slung across his back was Vidal’s knapsack with the laptops. We also recovered the helmets he and I use for moto rides. But there was no sign of the iPods…

Yikes! After everything was said and done, I wished passionately I had kept the darn thing in my pocket. Virak, an old hand in such situations, handled the situation with grace. He made a few calls, sipped his beer, and kept his mind on the larger picture. He asked me if I wanted to try to push the envelope and make an example of this situation publicly – maybe by making a public stink we could try to shed light on the need for reform in the way Cambodian law enforcement officers conduct themselves. I said yes, half-heartedly... Virak, having tapped his social network a bit, got word a little while later of a person who could help him negotiate for the car and the belongings in the vehicle as well as Lazar's belongings.

The night ended with uncertainty about what would happen next. It was getting late, and Vidal and I hopped a ride on a moto bike and got back to the hotel to eat dinner and whittle the hours away before bed.

As of this morning, I am unsure if Virak was able to recover either his car or his effects last night. He was totally at the whim of the law enforcement officer that was 'negotiating'. I expect he's going to be lighter in the wallet today. This morning, Vidal opened the knapsack, and out popped the iPod. I'm certain the driver stuffed the iPod in the bag before he evacuated. Lucky me.

I appreciate law enforcers that conduct themselves with discretion and integrity in the USA a little more today. I lack the feeling of security or of trust that things will stay the same from day to day - it's brought me a little closer to understanding and re-examining my own assumptions while I'm here. In Phnom Penh, things can "turn on a dime". Or 500 Riel.